As you can see, this is a very simple process!

Daylily blooms only last for one day, hence the name Hemerocallis, which means "beauty for a day," and that day is important.  You must be careful not to pull or knock off the fading bloom or you will cause the forming seed pod to removed as well!  The spent flower will dry up and within a few days, will fall off.  If you have successfully pollinated the flower, the seed pod will then be visible. 

One way to prevent accidental removal of the spent flower and potential seed pod is to take a pair of scissors and cut the spent flower off about 1-2" above the base.  This will insure that the base of the flower remains to protect the forming seed pod until it is at a point where accidental removal is not such an issue.  This should be done late in the day so that the pollen has had time to travel down the style and make adequate contact with the ovary. 

The seed pods will grow and enlarge, and here is a photo of that:

Once the seed pods get to a stage where gentle pinching causes it to crack at the seams (about 45-60 days), remove it from the plant.  Open it and remove the seeds, which will be glossy black and should be plump or mildly shriveled. 

At this point there are several options.  Some people dry the seeds for 24-48 hours and then place in a moisture proof container for refrigeration.  Some place damp peat moss in a baggie with the seeds for refrigeration.  Either way, refrigeration is frequently required for germination so we refrigerate all seeds, as those that do not necessarily require it will not be harmed by it.  We are partial to dry cold storage and that is just our method.  You may want to try both just to see which is preferable to you, however, you should check the seeds periodically for mold if they are in moist storage.

After cold storage (usually 3 weeks is adequate), remove the seeds from refrigeration and plant them in a seed starting mix.  Tana and I use different methods in this process. 

Tana plants seeds directly and begins watering, while I soak seeds in a filtered-water bath with a small amount of hydrogen peroxide.  This method allows visible confirmation that the seeds are germinating, as show in the photo below.

Once the seeds are visibly germinated, I then plant them with the white root-like protrusion at the side, as some believe this is root and some believe it to be the plant itself.  I take no chances here and plant it sideways!  The seed should be planted just below the soil surface (not too deep, but covered!).

Once your seeds are sprouted, they should be given plenty of good light and kept moist but not saturated.  If growing inside under lights, care should be taken to eliminate fungus gnats.  Damping off is another problem with inside grown seedlings and is fungal in nature.  Several methods of fungal treatment are available to prevent this.

The first year of growth is very important, as the plant will be maturing and preparing to bloom.  As with most perennial plants grown from seed, bloom can usually be expected the second year.  It is possible to get bloom the first year, however.  Here is a photo of seedlings I started in the winter of 2006/early 2007, and I will expect to see my first blooms in the 2008 season!

These seeds were started in 20 oz. cups with holes poked in the bottom, in an under-the-bed storage container (sans lid) under a grow light in my foyer.  This allows for bottom watering and is one way to reduce fungus gnats and damping off (or so I'm told).
                            

               3 months old seedling being "upsized" to larger container

The hardest part of daylily hybridizing by far... waiting to see your babies!  After the first year, though, you will have new seedlings blooming each year, so if you can make it through that first year, you will be rewarded with new seedling blooms every year!

HAPPY HYBRIDIZING!  gardenergail